The Palace That Wasn't

A Kuala Lumpur Farewell That Wasn't so Regal

PERSONAL REFLECTIONS

Peter Pickering

9/3/20244 min read

Place of the Golden Horses, Kuala Lumpur
Place of the Golden Horses, Kuala Lumpur

Tuesday marked our last full day in Malaysia—three weeks in this bustling city, and I thought we’d be flat out exploring every nook and cranny. But, as it often goes, life had other plans. Many of the places we were eager to visit had closed down, but don't get me wrong—we still had our share of laughs, fun, and a good dose of relaxation. It turned into a real holiday, just not the one we originally envisioned.

The Palace That Wasn’t: A Kuala Lumpur Farewell

But on this last day, I wanted to give Parichad something special, something that would really knock her socks off before we left. Then I remembered a magnificent hotel on the outskirts of Kuala Lumpur that used to be part of the Mines Resort when I lived here 30 years ago—now known as the Palace of the Golden Horses. This place looked like a palace straight out of Northern India, something out of a Maharaja’s dreams, with a grandeur that could leave anyone in awe.

So, I decided to surprise her and take her there. Now, I wasn’t deluding myself—we probably couldn’t afford to have lunch there, but surely, the budget could stretch to a cup of coffee and a bun, right? I booked a taxi, and off we went, arriving in just 20 minutes from the city centre, right from the heart of Chinatown. As we pulled into the magnificent driveway, I couldn’t help but admire the spectacle before us. But something was off—it was eerily quiet, and as we got closer, it became clear why. The lights were off, the doors were shut, and there was just one solitary guy sitting out front.

Halfway out of the Grab taxi, I called over to him, “Is it open?” He called back, “Closed,” with a shrug that said it all. Disappointed but curious, I got out of the car to have a longer chat with him. Turns out, the hotel hadn’t been doing well for years. It had a very checkered history and had suffered greatly during Covid. Severe water leaks were the final straw, forcing it to close down. What a shame—this magnificent place, now just a shadow of its former self.

Feeling a bit down, especially for Parichad, we took a few photos outside in the driveway area, with the grand hotel as a backdrop. We got a little taste of what it must have been like in its heyday, but it wasn’t quite the special ending I had hoped for.

Our Grab taxi wouldn’t wait for us—he had another job lined up—so we had to abandon ship and hope for another one, all whilst I was being eaten alive by voracious mosquitoes. Luckily, we managed to hail a ride within five minutes and headed to the Mines Shopping Mall, which was part of the same development. We got there before 10 am, so the shops weren’t open yet, but all the doors were, so we had a wander around this virtually deserted shopping centre, taking in all the nooks and crannies. By 10 o’clock, a few shops started to open, and we decided to have breakfast at Subway—the first time Parichad had tried it, and she really enjoyed it.

The shopping centre, built in 1996, was impressive even though it’s an older one. Its futuristic design still holds up, although a bit rundown now. A unique feature is the canal running through the lower ground level, with boats taking shoppers out into the lake in front of the mall and back again. A nice touch, though we didn’t get to try it—too early, and not enough people around to make it worthwhile for them, another casualty of Covid, I suppose.

The Mines Shopping Mall
The Mines Shopping Mall

It was quite sad to see so many shops closed down and those open struggling with no customers. You could feel the weight of the traders’ investments in their shops, now sitting there, almost abandoned. I felt for them.

After a good look around and a satisfying breakfast, we pondered our next move. No grand ideas came to mind, so we headed back to a familiar place—Sungei Wang Plaza, back in the heart of the city. After a visit to the optometrist to sort out my glasses (a tale for another time), we decided to end the day on a high note with a nice cup of coffee.

So, we took a short walk to Pavilion Mall, one of the high-end spots, and here we are, sitting at the Coffee Bean with some refreshing iced fruit drinks, people-watching, and enjoying the comfort of the air conditioning. The beautiful dome ceiling above us is a nice touch, but as we sit here, I can’t help but notice the hours ticking by. Very soon, we’ll be out of here, heading back to Bangkok, back to Thailand, where our lovely dogs, Dinky and NooDee, are waiting for us. We miss them terribly, and as much as I’ve enjoyed this trip, I’m ready to be home.